Fashion week is known as the most glamorous in the industry.
The front row demands the attention of showbiz bloggers while the
fashion fanatics wait for the highly anticipated shows. Alessandro Michele’s
first show as creative director of Gucci awaited the eager crowds and Italian
fall women’s wear season. Notorious for being one the most glitzy fashion houses,
Gucci surprised majority of the audience and journalists on Wednesday. Devotees
of the brands are used to the clear and precise references to the high fashion,
first class lifestyle. Diamond-encrusted knitwear and dressed down ball gowns were
to be expected of the line, but as the show began it was clear this year was
Rather than the ever-flowing champagne along the front row and
unnecessary bright lights, the walls and floor were black, creating an intense atmosphere.
The audience were reminded “The Contemporary is the Untimely.” by show notes
that referenced philosophers Giorgio Agamben and Roland Barthes. There were
less ball gowns and red carpet wears but more midi skirts with both men and
women taking to the catwalk. Nonetheless, flowers and floral prints were still incorporated
into many designs, subtly celebrating the history and glorious traditions of
The show was full of vintage treasures, hurling the spectators
into a world of flea markets with a date of couture. Librarian chic was a
running trend throughout each look, highlighting brains over beauty. With a mix
of oversized and nerdy eyeglasses, rings on every finger, knit beanies and turbans,
floral hair combs on top of slippers and clogs lined in fur at the back; Mr.
Michele bought a new twist to Italy.
Gucci brought back the greatness of a fashion show. Letting
go of the superficial highlights and bringing the focus to the clothing. The
shift from colossal logos and immature intentions is a positive one, with the
big brands stepping up to emphasise the prominence of classic high fashion.